mr.mortified

my toaster is my best friend just finished clearing catherine and going to start practicing up once again

catherine works well with an arcade stick indeed i wish i could have preordered the limited edition now

let me take some pictures, i'll have them up again tmr working on building 3 customs 1 dual mod 2 LED mods all while holding about 3 jobs with me working about 5-7 days a week modding is expensive you know

i shouldn't tell you then that my order from akishop just came in with clears and blues :3 go be a rich person and buy clear sanwas then

no one's asking questions so what else can i talk about? my current projects?

this is what happens if i'm not on my own thread for one day anyways, you could always just replace your pcb? i know gremlin would have some some custom toodles pcbs but that's generally a tech talk answer if you're going for a stick, i don't really suggest the FS3 because its harder than most to mod if you really wanted a good way out, get a TvC stick and mod it with a toodles pcb it will probably cost you even less and if anything breaks, its an easy fix I don't suggest you buy an entry level stick note how an SE sells for 99 pounds? have fun with this instead http://gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/qanba-q4raf-arcade-fighting-stick.htm sanwa + dual mod for the same price cheap sticks means general inconsistency i had a rant about the FS3 earlier in this thread i think so find there

we had that many people in TO make it out of pools? good job guys!

lol all of toronto was on the stream when master kou played his last game was pretty hype

your 10 hours is my 20 mins

Wait the boss got technika? Also I wish you all the best of luck at evo. (i hope master kou can send tokido home first thing) Linear you better not fuck up that stick of yours just because I went to get a haircut.

Easy enough to photoshop one for yourself. d3v has some good templates up on his site. http://www.d3vlicious.com/ Almost everyone ends up using his templates. as for printing it out, you have 2 choices, you can either get your local print shop to create a laminated print for you in which you glue it on your metal control panel or you get a plexiglass replacement from arthong and get him to print out the work for you http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/ a lot of people have experience with art and he does good work for those plexis. I think he's a bit backlogged right now though

so I figured out what pui and hermes do with the money they save at gety

its okay i'm going to be building a few LED sticks soon i'll try to identify the company soon enough

wait LED's? i don't get what you're saying i don't know that company i know there are LED mods for buttons but it can be done to sanwas too i am confused

Are you entirely sure? There are 3 main areas that you check when this sort of problem happens. First is in the button's microswitch. You can check whether that is the case by swapping the button as listed above. If the new signal is providing the same effects on the new signal and the other button on the original signal is working normally then you know you have a microswitch problem. Secondly there is the wire connecting from the main pcb to the button. You're gonna pull out your trusty multimeter and test connectivity between the two signals. See if they connect properly. If not, then its a wire problem Finally there is the possibility that it is a pcb problem. this may happen for 1 of 2 reasons you fucked up during the mod and either bridged a pin or destroyed some traces or killed some components on the board you find the bridge if its a bridge, retrace the traces if its that option or replace the board the second reason is the board ran through its lifespan and is now dead replace the board Also this isn't the place for this question btw

faceplate? did you mean the art or the button layout itself?

I generally use spray paint and sandpaper and spray paint and sandpaper Its generally 1 coat primer to see if its all smooth smoothen it out, prime it again run through that with like 200 grit paper to be smooth then run 1 light coat over the primer wait for 15 mins, run a light coat every 10 mins for a total of 4 coats let that dry for 2 days lightly wet sand with 400 grit till even apply same painting process before wetsand let dry for 2 days then wetsand apply gloss clear coat light for first coat, then 2 coats of that dry another 2 days wetsand with 1000grit paper and sand even. apply 2 light coats of gloss dry 2 days, wetsand again with 1000 grit until even take out automobile rubbing compound, rub the shit out of it take out automobile swirl remover, get rid of those ugly scratches tada you now have a godlike painted case it only took you a day to build and about a week to paint you end up with an effect like so

BBTE for that much is a ripoff general price before was around 130 you can find it at around that price you can buy it for much cheaper Search around SRK Trading outlet and you can find it dirt cheap alternative is to get a TE and do an art mod

I really have to not have work when you guys are doing these things. If you guys need to borrow an evo monitor I guess you can borrow mine if necessary

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSlnZxvi37s

square is easiest to do that 623 either that or i've just gotten too used to it there's also a pad for ps3 with an exchangable dpad/joystick and the joystick has a square gate

http://danbooru.donmai.us/post/index?searchDefault=Search&page=1&tags=black_rock_shooter%20absurdres danbooru is your best friend make sure its absurdres higher resolution makes for better art

since when did toronto start beasting monster hunter?

blue things are screw down terminals what looks like a modem port is the usb terminal they're not necessary, it just makes for easier input/output PS2 dualshock? go to slagcoin and see i personally would have recommended DS1's though to see waht type you have, take a look at the back on the etched part of the plastic and then compare the board you get from inside with one of the boards here http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS i don't advise solderless since its not always secure though common ground means that all the grounds including the one that goes the system share the same ground which makes it better daisy chaining your grounds and more convenient for joysticks since you can use the same ground input for all of your signals on your joystick contrary to common ground is common line, which means that certain signals have their own exclusive ground and cannot have it shared between signals that do not share that ground to answer your fourth question see the above logic, because you can share the same ground for the same inputs, it makes it possible to link all boards together and make them share the same signals you want them to without having any mixed signals