mr.mortified

I need a gety trip if i didn't need the money i'd not go to work ;_;

airbrushing skills. i dont' have them ;_;

you'd have to padhack your ps1 pad. like i said in post #1 slagcoin has your answer http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS the pcb diagram for your pad should be in there along with where to solder your directions to/spiffyshoes hack it. If you need another 5 pin cable, you can easily get one from lizardlick or akihabarashop or solder directly onto the JLF pcb

It depends what joystick model you have and what pcb you have. There are generally 2 models of sanwa joysticks in production. The JLW which exclusively connects via the microswitch's.187 quick disconnects or by soldering wires directly to the switches. You'd have to daisy-chain your grounds together and have your signals in separate wires leaving you with 5 wires, one for each direction and one for ground. For the JLF there is the model which has the microswitches which have to be connected via .187 quick disconnects or solder like the JLW and the model that does not use the microswitches and instead uses a pcb with a wiring harness. The wiring harness has different colors representing each microswitch and a black wire representing ground. Depending on how you orient the joystick's pcb, each of these colors are representative of different directions as seen in the picture below (from joystickvault) Now with regards to the PCB, if you're using a custom pcb like the PS360, the Cthulhu/ChImp, or the dual strike, these directions will be listed on the board and you'll just have to solder/screwdown terminal the wired directions each microswitch represents from there. If you're using something like a madcatz board, there is a nice wiring harness that madcatz uses that you can connect your joystick to as long as you are using the JLF with the pcb and wiring harness. If not you'll have to cut the harness and splice your wiring into that harness. The madcatz pcb states what direction and what wire it is on the pcb itself. Hope that answers your question.

fuck you all i will make mike haggar work

http://www.dustloop.com/forums/showthread.php?11111-%D0%9F%D0%BE%D0%BB%D1%83%D1%87%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5-%D1%8E%D0%B2%D0%B5%D0%BB i think this is a spambot? its speaking russian and has a lot of links.... edit: yep, russian bot trying to sell gold and jewelry

first build, that's all next build will be something like this debating whether to have L1/L2 on the face or on the side. top part that's semi-gray is wood, bottom black bar is also wood. Panel size comes out to about 16x6 inches for plexi and around 16x 8-ish inches for front face

you'll need 1 quick disconnect for every wire end going to a button and 1 button has 2 terminal assuming an 8 button layout + 3 for start/home/select that's 22 disconnects in total. that build took me like 2 months of planning and research. Be sure to plan and document your process in detail. MVC3 uses a 6 button layout. I have never seen a fighting game use 8 buttons. Vewlix layouts can suck my dick. Astro city for life Seriously though, read slagcoin again. And again. you'll have no more questions after that

with the pcb, with the wire harness feel free to use multiple colors. Just make sure you don't have a see through bottom cuz it'll look like ass imo this was my first build and first job, use it as an inspiration http://www.joystickvault.com/showgallery.php?cat=1038&ppuser=3189

Get a crimper, know to double crimp http://shoryuken.com/f177/quick-connects-263410/ Get a multimeter, use it to test all of your connections Get a wire cutter, ones on the crimpers from radio shack dont' work so well Get lead based solder. Lead free solder sucks ass read slagcoin thoroughly 5 more times before proceeding

not all usb ports have surge protection sadly The xbox's power brick goes red when you have a surge which eats fuses. The PS3 handles it in a way I don't know Most USB ports have surge protection now but who knows man. And a multimeter will come in handy

No, not an RJ45, its a plain jane male/male usb a/b. If you want a pass through so you can connect a usb to the case rather than have a usb wire sticking out, you'll need to add a neutrik usb a/b passthrough. No you do not need one of each colored wire. For a general joystick wiring job, you'll need maybe about 10 ft of wire maximum. Assuming you want to be able to hook up buttons with quick disconnects rather than soldering, get yourself enough .110 quick disconnects. Make sure that your sanwa JLF joystick comes with a wire harness rather otherwise you'd need 8 .187 quick disconnects for the joystick. 35 mm is standard for a balltop but it can go to 45 mm's or 30 mm's and yes GET A MOTHERFUCKING MULTIMETER the worst thing you can do to yourself is solder wrong and fry your PS3 or PC

how far are you again? i forget....

It seems that everyone keeps making new threads about their problems or questions regarding joysticks. Here's one main thread to keep this section a bit more clean. I'm a modder and a customs builder. I have done many modifications and have helped many in the fighting game community regarding their equipment. I will answer, or at least try to answer any questions from the community if they are having any problems with their equipment or have any question about joysticks in general Before you guys ask any questions I need you to read this website. www.slagcoin.com Slagcoin is a one stop shop for knowledge regarding your joystick, joystick parts, cases and case building. Who knows, maybe your question is already answered here. At the very least you can ask your question in a legible manner and use the proper terminology when it comes to your parts. If you still have a problem regarding your joystick or want further information about modification, take a look at the SRK Tech Talk forum (its the best spot in all of SRK, seriously). There are a plethora of modification tutorials, product comparisons and analysis plus a bunch of other cool people building custom joysticks and modding shit. Now ask away. edit: thread renamed to include modification

fuck i should just make a thread saying ask mr. mortified about joysticks here.... You can always get it off of akihabarashop.jp easy enough and there is always focusattack.com as well when it comes to joystick parts arcadespareparts.com has also been reliable but shipping from singapore though. be prepared to wait for aki though as they take brand new parts straight from the production batches. edit: if you're considering making your own joysticks and joystick cases. My first suggestion is NO. If you're trying to consider making a decent looking joystick will be cheaper than making your own stick the answer is it isnt. The tools, materials, equipment necessary, and not to mention the TIME it takes is going to put you in the drain more than a stock madcatz TE will cost you. Unless you're doing this for fun and considering it as your hobby (its a fucking expensive hobby) you're better off just buying a stock TE and making it look pretty with new art and buttons

we'll always have our fish

there's also another sale right now btw.... http://shoryuken.com/f177/kayane-mad-catz-20%25-fightsticks-round-2-te-264937/

sigh...... i wish i was at gety today instead of studying for a midterm on a saturday morning......

I need a gety trip...... Also why is someone taking my pink tager status?

The V3's, VX's and VLX's are common if i remember right. Custom cases are for ballers only :3 also tupperware sticks are GDLK too if you make it right

only when QCF is selling cases will you be able to get cases at 25-35 a case that doesn't look like a shoebox or something put together by a nail gun

I'd still mod it anyways just because Vewlix layouts can suck a dick. Also building your own is costly too, more costly than doing a TE especially when it goes on sale (which it is right now 20% off because some chick says so)

here to appease the masses, its been updated for correctness its actually a template for one of my custom projects in the spring when the frozen wasteland around me thaws and i can bring tools outside again

OHOHOHOHOHO How naive this poor soul is. You're gonna have a totally fun time popping out those buttons via soldering them off of the circuit board, dremeling off the button tabs in the holes and putting sanwa buttons in and soldering wires to the buttons and circuit boards. You'll also have a fun time inserting a JLF inside that FS3 :3 Take it from me one of the proud but few modders on dustloop, these sticks are a bitch to mod. If you get lucky in a sale, pick up a madcatz SE and buy your sanwa replacements. You'll probably save on the money for the tools you need for this mod if you already don't have the tools of the trade to do so. on a plus side, an FS3 is one of my most favourite sticks as it's got a non ass sucking layout like vewlix called astro city 1P

of course :3 that's the point of it :3 Remaking the name to astrolix in the top corner and yeah. Thats kinda the point of this layout is i hate the vewlix layout and it sucks a total nut compared to astro city P1. Just that no one has made the psd for an astro city with vewlix art also i like vewlix art a lot so yeah....