blackraen

Player matches and cab play both contribute to your heat color. I'm one of the losers with a darker color square, so unfortunately it gets pretty hard to find a match when you factor in the ratings + my hours leading to more JP and fewer NA folks. I've just given up on Arcade lobby and just play ranked against y0 JP players.

Yeah it's kind of a mix between the tech and just missing the graviton. I'll reduce the chain and try a little more patience. I really run into this problem working on challenge 24 (graviton > 5b>6a>j.b > jc j.b>j.c>j.6d>j.236d>2c>6c>j.2c). I'm only landing the 236D 1/5 times. Driving me crazy. H.H. (prior to console release Mu-12 player) has been playing her a lot. http://www.twitch.tv/adastream/b/477769219

VERY small. Is it even practical to try for it or should you just pick up the combo and just be happy if you get lucky with the ground pickup? I don't really understand why but I'm have an intensely difficult time reliably connecting .... j.5C > j.6D > 236D Is there some kind of specific spacing or timing thing I'm missing on this, or should I only be doing one jump (something into airi) > j.5b > j.5c.. instead of j.5b > jc > j.5b?

BuruRaji A Episode 2 is finally up: http://www.nicovideo.jp/watch/1383792030 Iori Nomizu guest this time so lots of good/annoying heroine talk between her an konchan.

Specific recommendation was meant in terms of personally building your first stick without prior experience. If he can find someone in his local community that can build a case, and wire if necessary, then that's obviously a good solution. Especially considering how annoying shipping/import is to South America.

It a lot but that is also the standard. It actually cost me 85$ for EMS on my Arc25th stick to the US. If you're trying to go arcade stick on a budget, it's pretty hard in South America. Most shipping will be expensive, many countries also have pretty hefty import taxes as well which is why the domestically sold items will be so expensive. The thing about arcade sticks is that if you try to scrimp and go too budget, you'll get a stick that will have any combination of (1) cheap knock-off buttons/joysticks that will break quickly or perform unreliably, (2) a poorly constructed case enclosure that either flexes, breaks easily, is non-standard (meaning parts can't be replaced), and/or (3) low quality electronics that do not have appropriately compatible designs causing them to not perform reliably or predictably. In the end, while for most people I discourage the idea of complete stick building as their first endevour, you MIGHT come out cheaper, and with a good quality stick, if you imported just parts and built the case yourself, if that's in your capability. Ultimately, if you're looking for too cheap of a stick and the shipping is too high, you would be better off waiting/saving. Don't push it and get a compromise/low quality stick. It will be a bad experience and you probably won't stick with it, and will just go back to pad, making it a waste of money. I wish there were better shipping options for South America though. I deal with SA shipping logistics sometimes at workand sometimes we just have to let things rot down there because it costs less to abandon equipment and buy something new domestically than to bring it back up.

Store region is not system language based, it's PSN account based. Just need to specify the right region, no language switch necessary (some regions will then force switch the displayed languages during account creation though). Asian region can be specified by selecting "番港" from the country list. This is Hong Kong and will actually allow you to continue in English as well. You can also do it on the web directly from this URL: https://store.playstation.com/accounts/register/beginNewAccountRegistrationFlow.action

This probably should have been in a different section. The issue described sounds like a power issue combined with damage to that PS3's USB ports. There's a couple of factors that can contribute but the short of it is that USB 2.0+ supports auto-negotiation of expected power draw. If there is some kind of damage leading to a short at the supply or in the ticket itself that results in draw that goes beyond the expected or supplied amount, you will usually see the "power" error message on the PS3 and observe sporadic behavior from your controller. Because you mentioned P2 specifically, and the point where both sticks stopped working until the console was rebooted, I expect that there is some kind of damage to the USB port the 8arc was connected to and the USB soft fuse probably tripped finally in order to prevent damage.

The custom title field total length is limited to 15 or 16 characters. #1 more annoying think about localizing Japanese games, unreasonable text string limitations. Japanese, a language so compressible, you can write a short story in a twitter post. ><

Yeah commercial stick shouldn't really be over $200 and I suggested either the Kai or a TE MLG because they're supposed to be in the 150 - 100 range. What place was trying to sell a MLG TE for $400? That's ridiculous. They're available on Microsoft's site for 99$ right now (xbox version anyways). http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Mad-Catz-MLG-Arcade-FightStick-Tournament-Edition/productID.253767700 Kai is a good stick though, you'll like it, and if you want to look at modding later, the community will definitely be able to help you out.

Yeah that sounds about right. That's the rough thing about ordering codes. If something comes up on a weekend you're pretty much stuffed. I do a lot of import/JPN store download so I always try to keep my account charged up to 7500円 and refill when I drop below that so that I don't have to worry about that. Also helps working a schedule that's in-sync with the Japan/Aus timezone so I tend to put in my orders during their work times. Just gotta remember that a human is going to have to look at your order before you get a code unfortunately.

Here's the trick about ordering PSN Card codes with digital delivery -- You have to view these things exactly as gift cards. Once the retailer gives out the code, it is effective money that is gone. They have no way to get it back if the transaction is bad, fails, etc. As a result, almost every single retailer that offers digital deliver of a PSN Yen card (or similar gift card type service) has to involve manual review at some level or another to validate the transaction. This means that when ordering one of these cards online, you need to take the vendor's location and business hours into account. Unfortunately, it sounds like you placed your order after-hours for the business so you may need to wait for someone to do a manual order review before pushing the code. I know that when I've ordered from Play-Asia, when I've ordered off-hours for Honk Kong I always expect to wait until HK business hours. When I do place an order during HK business hours, code delivery is effectively instant (submit order, land on digital delivery page, refresh, theres the code). Be patient and note what time it is for the vendor with the assumption that manual action on their part is required. A few days sounds like too much though. Was that from japan-codes.com? It shouldn't take a few days for a business that is specialized in that, at least during a weekday. I haven't used them before but that would make me very cautious about using them in the future.

Yep, those slots right there make it pretty easy to route stuff in/out of the case.

Unfortunately my electronics design ability ends as "soldering wires to existing PCBs" so I'm not sure how to build that out. Was going to be my "lets learn some stuff" project. The other benefit is that it's a lot cheaper than buying a new PCB for a non-primary stick. I guess the thing about the "OR" gate I'm not understanding is how you could use that to detect both ST and SEL to generate a 3rd signal, AND have a ST==true + SEL==true condition generate a 0 for those individual wires using that chip. The reason why an OR gate sounds wrong is that you get a True for A, B, or A and B. Not seeing how that can generate the desired results.

If you're thinking of plastic, meaning leaning towards a lighter stick then I would really recommend the Hori Real Arcade Pro V3 SA Kai. It's a great starter stick. The Fighting Edge is a much bigger, beastlier thing, and it is harder to mod due to the touch screen. It also uses some custom Hori components so it kind of deviates from the standard. Are you talking about the Arc 25th anniversary stick? I've been thinking about this too. Instead of adding a button some where, or replacing the PCB, I'm working out a small board design that I can build up on perf board that will gate out start and select so that if you press them both it will activate as home. In the meantime I actually just have a 24mm button in the cable compartment that I hooked up to the PCB in the meantime.

Very good idea. As a fellow Nu player, the 22A move is not a problem for me on any of my arcade sticks. I can imagine that given enough time you'll get the hang of it on the d-pad too though. The bounce-back issue that you mention isn't a problem with proper stick technique regardless of what lever you're using, but neutral return can be adjusted by using stiffer springs as necessary. First, price... Be prepared to spend money. If you were to go out and buy JUST quality joystick (the actual lever) and buttons, you're looking at about 60$. Throw a PCB (controller board) in and you're anywhere from 90 to 120$ (PS3/PC Cerberus for as little as $30, or a PS360+ board for 60$). You want to go quality, do not go cheap for a stick, it will be a bad experience and quite possibly a waste of money since you won't enjoy using it and you'll drop it for the familiarity of the pad. Prebuilt or Self-build The biggest determining factor here is your comfort level with wiring, electronics, and woodworking. If you've got a strong understanding of all three, a self built stick is AWESOME! I hand built this stick. Poplar case, wired it up myself with a cerberus + a MadCatz 360 fightpad for dual-mod, even stuck a FGW LED controller in for button lighting. Seimitsu buttons, JLF stick, all done specifically to my taste. The weight, feel, sound, and look all as I wanted it. That said, this project probably ran me about $250 all told in terms of boards, parts, odds and ends, paint, etc. I love it but it was a week of hard work, and I had previous experience with all of that. If you aren't an eletronics guy with a woodshop and tools, go prebuilt commercial The prices really are right, even though they might seem high. A MadCatz TE (Current release is the MLG branded stick, runs ~150$, but specials all the time for 99$) is a good baseline. They're common sticks, come fitted with Sanwa parts, and the modding community has plenty of experience with them and can support them. I always come down to recommending either a MadCatz TE (the MLG branded ones are what's currently available), or a Hori RAP Kai (HRAP V3 SA Kai for PS3, or a HRAP VX SA Kai for Xbox360). One of those is typically going to be your best starting point. I used one of each (HRAP V3 SA, predecessor to the Kai) before I started doing my own building. Qanba sticks are lower price, and people in the community have had varying experiences with them, from good to poor. If you've got the electronics mojo down but don't want to do woodworking, there are case builds out there and you could then fit it with parts as you desire, but at this stage you probably don't have enough familiarity with parts to need or want to customize). Buying a stick really would be recommended for a first timer. There is a great thread on SRK Techtalk on this topic too, if you're looking for some verbage about what's out there and to help you decide, check this out. Darksakul's initial post contains a large amount of breakdown for first-time stick buyers, both in terms of what you're looking at and how you should think about, as well as specific information about the different sticks out there: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/137321/what-stick-controller-should-i-buy-read-the-guide-on-pg-1-before-posting/p1 Ultimately, stick is a great experience, but if you can't afford a quality product, I'd recommend waiting until you can, it's worth it.

BuruRaji A Episode 2 preview is up: http://www.nicovideo.jp/watch/1383187627 I just noticed that the Azrael mousepad was so popular they decided to throw a regular production run for it instead of the limited set so the 300 order cap is gone and it's open season on pre-orders. http://store.broccoli.co.jp/ec/pro/disp/9/0400000139982 I got a good laugh at that. My Japanese isn't that great so I really got lost during that part, especially with Sugita -- picking out Sugita chatting vs. Ragna whining was hard, so I was totally with Shamoji there. >__< I forget, is Nomizu-san supposed to be a guest for this next episode?

By default ALL of your matches will get temporarily saved (see Kurushii's menu translations for how to tune your replay saves). If you want to keep something permanently and not have it roll off as your saves continue you have to specifically flag it.

Yeah I'd like to figure this one out as well. Typing in Japanese is fine since almost everyone I end up playing with are 日本人, but it'd be nice to easily converse with English people. I also have yet to figure out how to change my character's walking speed to actually WALK. To menu-ticket says O for speed, but it doesn't do anything. I'm wondering if this is one of those "X/O firmware" issues with NTSC_M vs NTSC_J PS3s.

DLC is not compatible the regions. DLC is tied to a game's registered indentifier (you can see these identifiers when you look at Vita backups for example). Games receive a different identifier for each region they are published in. For instance, the identifier for BBCP in Japan is BLJS10225, while the Asia region version is NPJB00354. DLC is associated with the identifier. Any DLC will be tied to that regional version. Once the order is completed you will log back into your Play-Asia account and view the order page. Your code will be available there.

I would be down with that. I've been having a hard time finding matches. All the rooms with decent ping to the west coast are big streamers and I'm probably too weak to ruin a good stream broadcast. Everytime I try and make a room for US folks it seems it's primary the Y0 Japanese guys that pop in. They're the only ones in the US region lobbies too.

Are you leaving the Language and Region set to 日本 and 日本語? Like so..

Terumi unlock piggy-backs with the download. The download for Terumi is basically just a 100k unlock file so it would have been super fast and installed immediately after the game finished install. Check that when you start the game up and go into a character select if you've got Terumi or not. If you don't, you need to go in and redownload the game. You should then be able to background, exit the store, go to Network/Download management and kill the game download and let the terumi continue.

Reading the Japanese I always thought it should/was supposed to be "Phase Shift", since it's a reference to (mechanics related spoiler you probably guessed a year ago). The 22A links aren't really all that bad. From the time I was spending last night, it's very buffer tolerant. The part I'm gonna have a hard time with is the increased need for dash cancels. In CSE (where I started), I managed to play only 50% scrubby but my technique's been limited by having a hard time being consistent with the A gravity seed to 66>6A>TK Cresent link. So many more dash cancels for CP Nu, I might be forced to pick a new character (or man up and fix my issues). I'm working initially mostly using this video: http://www.nicovideo.jp/watch/sm21609025 Jourdal has a YT mirror up here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4kU739RWdA

I've been doing a steady refresh on the store. They started adding new content about 30 minutes ago but BBCP isn't up yet. It's confirmed that it will be up today though, I'll drop a line when it's finally available. https://store.sonyentertainmentnetwork.com/#!/ja-jp/