blackraen

Like Dosu mentions, the #1 cause for weird lever behavior is accidentally flipping your stick into the LS or RS pseudo-analog modes instead of the DP direction-pad mode. This is because of how the controllers try to emulate the analog signals using the digital switches and can cause some really strange outputs. Factoring in (what I consider to be) the Hayabusa's slightly too weak spring and you can get some even stranger outputs due to the rebound. The button issue though makes me wonder if you're getting the PS4 controller processing lag problem I've had in the past as well. I've hit situations where my DS4 will periodically become 'stuck' for a second or more sometimes. In that case I was able to correct it by going into the system menu and selecting Restore Defaults (found that tip on a PS4 subreddit or something). So that's another thing to try as far as the PS4 problem goes. But it's really crazy how badly the DP/LS/RS switch can mess up your game. First thing to check, always. Also, I think a 2lb JLF spring makes the Hayabusa the best stick around. Fixes rebound and makes it feel soooo smooth.

Your symptoms sound like you've set your controller into emulate-analog mode. Check for a switch for DP/LS/RS and make sure you're set to DP (for direction pad).

Can't rapid until the second sword comes out as far as I could tell.

I would suspect that it is probably just a difference in how you execute between the two controllers. Looking at the online pictures for the Ebten excusive GGXrd stick, I'd assume it's probably an Exar, and that the whole body is a nice solid metal, similar to my Exar stick. Depending on how you hold/play, the additional weight and surface on the GGXrd special controller may feel more like it gives you more control, and/or differences in the case acoustics may be giving you better feedback on where you are with the lever. I would doubt technical issues with your component parts as the cause since that would manifest a little more significantly. I'm not a fan of the Exar stuff because the cases feel a little blown to me, but if that is your preferred case type, they do make them nice and big.

You can use some graphite to lubricate the switch a bit, though it'll probably stop squeaking on its own over time. Alternatively, though a bit extreme for a squeak, you could just buy a replacement JLF switch PCB. Hayabusa will work fine. The controller PCB is the one that determines system compatibility. Buttons and levers are just mechanisms to contain basic mechanical switches. Hayabusa uses the same pin layout as a JLF, and the mounting place is JLF compatible so it would fit fine in the TE2. Only think I don't know about is if the Hayabusa's body will clear the PCB cover. I couldn't tell by just looking at pictures and I don't have a TE2 myself yet, but I'm fairly certain it'd fit fine.

So the TV model but not what mode settings. Lag that bad though, that's not the PCB, that's something else. I call complete shenanigans on that video. Something else is wrong with his setup.

After messing around with my HRAP v.4-s (same as that video's owner) I was completely unable to produce lag like that. He likely had something else wrong with his setup. I find it damning that he didn't specify anything about his environment (what he was connecting to, any intermediate equipment, monitor, etc). There's no way that a simple chip setup like the board has could produce such an extreme delay in input register/transmit. But Hori did terminate that version and the new versions seem like they'll be using a new board most likely so it definitely may have had problems. It would still be a good recommendation to hold on and get one of the newer sticks (like the v4 Kai or a V5) instead. The RAP v5 will be out on the 15th, amazon.jp preorders are up here: PS3/4 ver: http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%9B%E3%83%AA-%E3%80%90PS4-PS3%E5%AF%BE%E5%BF%9C%E3%80%91%E3%83%AA%E3%82%A2%E3%83%AB%E3%82%A2%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B1%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89Pro-V-%E9%9A%BC/dp/B00S94RODA XboxOne: http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%9B%E3%83%AA-%E3%83%AA%E3%82%A2%E3%83%AB%E3%82%A2%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B1%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89Pro-V%E9%9A%BC-for-Xbox-One/dp/B00ME9PQXQ The V4 discontinue is probably part of the reason why they are so hard to come by here too. Hopefully we'll hear the V5 announced for other regions soon.

The thing about the silent that might throw you is that the lever is optical, not quieted microswitches, so it will feel extremely different than your standard lever. Some people like it, some people don't. For the buttons you can always take the pads out of the buttons for a more traditional feel. If you do find that the lever isn't to your liking, I'd suggest picking up and installing a 2lb JLF spring. It still doesn't get rid of the "empty floating" feeling of an optical but the 2lb with the Hayabusa pivot design feels pretty nice and stiffens up the lever just a bit.

So I'm classically horrible at neutral, don't have a very good mind for figuring out what I should be doing. At the entry level how are you guys approaching Leo's neutral game? Air approach j.K > j.HS > ground? What's your go to on the ground? I feel like projectile could give good cover for approach it feels like the recover time neutralizes the approach options really. The only place I'm having much success so far is managing to catch people in the air with a j.S > jc > j.K > j.HS > j.236HS into an Oki set. (Though I'm also horrible at oki so it quickly becomes defense or neutral game again at best.) Trying to figure out how to maximize my training time.

I have some time over the weekend, could do some translation work. What are the two JP wikis and how/who do I get in touch with on a Mizuumi login?

I dunno, I felt like that fight was very simply to story-mode Take-Mikazuchi. Remember, Take-Mikazuchi in story mode was a hell of a lot weaker than the Highlander mode version. I kind of liked the uncertainty that the lack of a health bar introduced when I was playing; I had absolutely no idea how I was doing, if it was going to take a while or end quickly. Was fun enough for story mode but it would be interesting if they had also put in a mode similar to BBCP's Highlander so you could fight it at an increased difficulty level.

So for NA play-time is it mostly player lobbies or is there a specific online lobby room that folks are using? Kind of anxious to jump in and get some play-time with Labrys again, but kind of afraid of how much of a freebie I'll probably end up being.

Grim reapah all weekend! I'm actually leaving my lobby/stream "FreeTime!!" up all weekend at http://www.twitch.tv/blackraen -- Main account is idle for stream, if playing I'll be apcp_faller.

Thanks! I spent some time in training and realized that I'd been timing everything totally wrong! I'm getting wakeup grabs off a lot more reliably now. I guess the next level will be character awareness for DPs and block/punish follow throughs. Thanks for the tip! Now I just have to practice timing it to the green beat instead of the knockdown to account for wake up delays. Also, thanks to all/any for joining the lobby. Having lots of fun tonight.

I feel the flailing Gordeau vibe. I'm really not understanding how to oki with him at all so even when I do land something and run a combo, I just have to reset to neutral cause I get stuff anytime I try to keep it up. Also doing a west-coast lobby tonight with a stream if anyone's interesting beating my weak a** up, though some somewhat decent peeps have been showing up to run the show.

Saves the match to your replay library. First dialogue is asking if you want to upload it (optional, you can select キャンセル if you don't want others to see it). Second dialogue is to save it to your library.

I have traditionally gone with Play-Asia for my physical importing. My particular favorite about them is their offering of FedEx shipping is really nice, at least coming State-side, and is pretty equivalently priced to EMS but ships must faster. My typical shipping experience with Play-Asia runs a 50/50 between them shipping 1 day early (HK time) or on day-of-release (HK time again), and with FedEx delivery to Eugene, OR it's usually 2 days. Thanks to the Intl. Date Line, that means I usually get my physical copies from PA on Thursday or Friday my time, which is really nice. I like AmiAmi though since they will most often be able to offer the pre-order bonuses and other things that you'll miss out on more often than not with PA, but they are a JP based shop and ship using EMS, so stuff takes longer to get there, and they usually don't actually send out shipments till end of day on release day, so an AmiAmi shipment usually reaches me Monday or Tuesday (for Thursday release items). They do tend to be a little less expensive than PA though. They do NOT like it if you cancel orders though and may dump your account if you make a habit of it, so that's another thing to watch for with AmiAmi. The PA UNIEL shipment seemed to have been delayed a day, but I surprised to have still received mine today. Sometimes FedEx really comes through.

The key to remember about joysticks is that they are just a combination of 4 mechanical switches; 1 each for up, down, left, and right. Diagonals are accomplished by activating a combination of two switches at the same time. Ex: Up + Right = Diagonal Up/Right (1P 8+6 = 9) Your phrasing suggests that you are most likely looking at an execution concern where you are hitting the up switch slightly before activating the right switch. Your decision to use notation rather than cardinal is why I'm assuming execution over mechanical since I'm guessing you mean you have this problem regardless of side. If you are concerned you have a mechanical issue with your joystick lever, begin by loading a game with training mode that will show inputs including hold time for directions, or if compatible, connect to a PC and open up the controller's properties window (showing buttons, and POV). Once there, hold cardinal directions and repeatedly activate to confirm individual switches are activating as expected. If they are, then you just need to work on your diagonal execution (** rare caveat). If you do observe missed input or flakey activation (flickers on and off while being held), you have a failing switch and need to replace it (component requirements vary based on type of lever). ** It is always possible that your PCB is processing signals incorrectly, but there are very few boards that have the problem, and in most cases if you have a board problem, your entire controller doesn't work, not flakey/abnormal input performance.

I know Koyama has his reputation to hold up and all, but he devolves pretty quickly to sekuhara and nipple jokes pretty quick. -__- Next month will be nice, Nomizu-san is so sweet and easy going.

The switches used in the Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK are more expensive due to their "silent" construction. The lever is also new so Sanwa is marking up for premium on new releases. The plate that is missing on the Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK Joystick (No Plate Installed) is the mounting plate, not the gate (which is at the bottom). The reason FA offers a no-mounting plate version is that some people do not need/want to order an extra mounting plate as they may have a custom plate or other approach they are taking. The offering has no effect on performance.

This is very dependent on what kind of stick you have and what kind of facilities you have near you. Most commercial sticks do not come with plexi overlays that make it easy to swap art, though that is changing with options like the new MCZ TE2. Your first step is to evaluate your stick, if you have a plexi overlay or some other mechanism that would allow you to swap your art already. Most TEs come with the art panel and plexi as a fused piece, so you'll need to order a plexi overlay (art at tek-innovations can cover you on this, as well as many other kinds of common sticks). Others may simply have a sticker label meaning you'll be on your own for deciding how you want to replace it (Hori RAP3s for instance). In some cases Art might supply plexi panels that you can use, otherwise you might have to find a place that will print your art on a lami-label (or some other sticker/vinyl wrap type material). Once you've evaluated your stick for replace-ability of the art and acquired any additional stuff you might need (like a replacement plexi), then yes, you can proceed with art replacement. For designing your own replacement art, either search and find a template (usually supplied as .PSD or .PDFs) for your stick, or take measurements of your stick yourself and try to create the template in your graphic editor. DIY template design can be tricky for button holes, but if you aren't doing a design that requires knowing EXACTLY where your buttons are you can just generalize best you can and you should be fine. Make sure you're working at 300dpi or higher for best results. 72dpi will look like poop when you print it out. As far as printing, your print shop might have different options, I have had the best success with a non-gloss 80lb paper that my local shop has. They have two versions with different temperatures of white -- I prefer the warmer white, the printed material tends to pop better, but this may depend on your content. When in doubt, print two out. You can cut the print out up yourself using an exacto knife. Use your plexi overlay to trace your lines. Cut straight lines with a ruler, for button holes and other curves make sure you use something with a medium hardness as backing and use an even steady pressure and turn your artwork to suit your cutting, don't play twister. If the backing material is too soft you won't get clean lines, but too hard and you'll have control issues. Don't fuss too much about button holes though, the lip will cover up the edges. Finally, when putting your art in, you will need to open your stick up and remove your buttons and at minimum take off your lever's ball/bat top. Make sure to note which wires go where. Again, the exact process is going to depend on your stick, but it can be as easy as print out a graphic and put it on.

It was a limited edition. Stock is probably depleted so if you were going to purchase one it'd have to be from a private owner at this point.

Unfortunately most pads out there aren't made in a way that's very suitable for fighting games. The d-pad contacts and rockers, as well as the buttons tend to be in direct contact with the pcb. Causes them to sporadically or complete fail after what most of us would consider "light use." Nothing current that is really worth it. I'm a stock person myself, can't play on a d-pad, but I have to say that the DS4's dpad feels pretty good, and you can use a DS4 on the PS3 no problem if you connect via USB (no wireless). See if you can get your hands on one and feel it out. On match finding topic, I'm a lower level player (working on Kokonoe since I was failing too much at adjusting to the new Nu) with crappy play hours on the west coast. Is there anyone in the western US region (pacific northwest) that will generally be around and online between 2AM and 6AM pacific during the week? I really need some real player practice against some non-0 connections, particularly that don't mind that I'm on the weak side but really working at trying to improve.

In the end though Developers didn't even know that was a possibility (and some are kind of doubting it) so it's pretty safe to say that this point that your PS3 compatible arcade stick will not be PS4 compatible. That said, the DS4 is surprisingly common-ground so this means that modding an existing stick using a DS4 PCB should be a possibility. I haven't looked at doing this yet since there's no 2D fighters for the PS4 yet, but once yatagarasu comes out I was going to see about sticking a DS4 board in one of my TEs.

If you go to your PS3 System settings and change your keyboard to English (UK) then it will default text input from your keyboard regular English characters in the game (displayed keyboard will still show japanese characters).