dragontamer

Noel was probably "born" the day Ikaruga was destroyed. Similar to Nu who was like, 30 minutes old when she fought Ragna

3 vs 1 Round for Nu vs Tager implies a 7.5 : 2.5 for Nu vs Tager. (That is, about 3 to 1). That is: Nu will win 3x the number of matches vs Tager.

I always successfully use a meaty on Tager's Wakeup. And by "Successful meaty", I mean I eat a Genesic Emerald Tager Buster.

Proration == crap. 2D -> 6A -> 28D -> 6C 5D (BNB) will do more damage than 2D -> 5A -> 6A -> etc. etc. 2D -> 28D does the most damage, but only with proper spacing or a rapid cancel will you land the 6C, so the 6A can be used for a bit more reliability. The 5A makes you _lose_ damage. Really, the A attacks in chain revolver are very bad from a damage perspective. All combos will benefit if you remove them. I do think they are useful, but try to leave them out when you've already hit your opponent.

Lol. I feel the same thing. Against a good, unpredictable Noel, I just can't read them. >_< I think Mirror Match is my worst matchup as well. Pressure though is as usual for me. Noel doesn't have any one-frame heatless options like dragon punches, so no worries about the hole in 5A -> 5B -> 5C -> 2C. 5A spam always works well, and you can mixup into jump-cancels, 2B as a low, 6B as an overhead or even running up to them during your 5A spam and throwing them. (or 214A for the untechable throw). More or less, its the same thing as most other opponents. It should be noted that the Second player to activate chain revolver has the advantage. So... never start chain-revolver against a good Noel unless you know she won't block it, lest you be counter-chain revolvered into a BNB damage string. And if the opponent is doing chain revolver against you, 5D works very well against chain-revolver spam. I need to slightly retract my (Drive) 6C advice from above... I just figured out recently that (Drive) 6C -> 5B on normal block has a hole smaller than 7 frames. Basically, unless you instant-block, you can't grab them safely after 6C. You can still counter-super them during _their_ chain revolver for lulz.

It was under my impression that 5DD -> Command Dash and 5DD -> Jump Cancel -> j.214D / j.2DD / j.214DC was safer for Nu, at least, I'm seeing that more often in higher level videos. Of course, learning to beat 5DD-> 4D is necessary if you want to get to that level.

Reserved

Note: this is a Calamity Trigger Guide. --- Guide Versions --- Version 1.0 -- Major change to guide structure. Dec. 16, 2009 Version 0.1a -- Edited Tae Seong Kim's name in. Oct. 08, 2009 Version 0.1 -- Initial Posting. Posted Sept. 13, 2009 --- The Fundamentals --- Read Hellmonkey's and Tae Seong Kim's guide. He did a good job covering the basics attacks. Also, look up the frame data yourself (the link is in Hellmonkey's guide) if you want to figure out a lot of this yourself. I will also shamelessly plug my own topic on the Frame Advantages of the Drive Attacks. A lot of the work I present in this guide is based on those calculations. I suggest reading and understanding the above before reading this topic. The frame guide is linked in Hellmonkey's guide, so you can study that for more of the specifics. Apologies to updating this guide so late. CS is out, but this guide is still on CT, for us people who don't play in the Arcades. --- General Strategy --- While every Chain Revolver string is risky, there is no single strategy that can always beat Chain Revolver. Mixing it up is your only protection when using Chain Revolver. If your opponent knows what you are going to do, he can counter you with potentially devestating results. On the other hand, if your opponent guesses wrong, there are plenty of "traps" where Chain Revolver can damage your opponent. Also keep spacing in mind while doing Chain Revolver. A properly spaced Chain Revolver should be outside the range of your opponent's grabs and jabs, but close enough so that you never whiff an attack. This distance is character dependant. Long range chain revolver against Ragna and Jin can allow you to pressure your opponent outside of their dragon punch range. However, Nu has few options up close and her 3C outranges your chain revolver hits anyway. So you might as well stay as close to her as possible, and focus more on frame traps to prevent her from grabbing you. I don't recommend chain revolver pressure on Tager, Bang, Hakumen, or Mirror-Match Noels. Tager has Sledge and 720C. Bang has 2D. Hakumen has his counters, and Noel can counter-hit with 5D. If you do enter chain revolver pressure against these opponents, know that 2D beats Tager's grabs, (Drive) 5B, 236D, (Drive) 6B, and 28D beat his sledge. "Big holes" vs Hakumen beat out his Yukkikaze, 2D and 6D, but lose out to his jabs and 5D. (For example, (Drive) 6A -> 5C is a 16 frame hole). Use 214D on reaction to Bang's 2D and Daifunka (2363214C super) and you may get out in time. Against Noel, wait for the opponent to start chain revolver. Wait for improper spacing on your opponent and use 5D -> 6C -> 214A -> 2B -> 6C -> j.B -> j.C -> j.236C as a counter-hit. If your opponent keeps doing this to you, use 28D to frame-trap the 5D, or (Drive) 6D or 3C to counter his 5D. 3C is beaten by (Drive) 5A, 6B, and 2D, but beats 5D, (Drive) 5B and 236D. --- Anti-Strategy --- Here's what NOT to do with Chain revolver. 1. Randomly Mash buttons. "Random" Chain revolver will be beaten by a grab almost every time. Focus your efforts: you need to play in such a way to discourage your opponent from grabbing you by controlling your distance and using frame traps if you get too close. 2. 5D -> 5A -> 6A -> 5A -> 6A -> 236D. I've seen this time and time again, and it makes me sad. For one, this sequence is weak as hell: dealing only 1815 damage. Hell, 5D -> 236D deals more damage (2034) and is less vunerable to throws if it is blocked. So this string is terrible on block, and terrible for doing damage. You should never do this string, despite what the Limited Edition DVD tells you. 3. Play repetitively. In the previous version of this guide, I put up some sample Chain Revolver strings. While they were "better" in some sense than mashing buttons or using string #2 above... I need to emphisize the point that ANY repetitive sequence can and will get punished by good players. Focus on reading your opponent and yourself. Are you getting beaten by dragon punches on your 3rd hit? Maybe its a good time to use 214D on that precise hit. Getting grabbed or poked out of 5C -> 5D ? Then its a good time to use 5C -> 3C -> Haida loop. 4. Play Combo Strings as pressure and vice versa. Pressure is NOT about using combos, but instead about forcing your opponent to make a mistake. --- Note on Notation --- (Drive) will point out Chain Revolver followups. Note that (Drive) 5D is different from 5D. 5D staggers on hit, forces the opponent to stand, combos into (Drive) 6C and is nasty on counter-hit. (Drive) 5D on the otherhand barely combos into anything, but provides a little more frame advantage on block and leaves the opponent crouching. During a combo string, such as 5D -> 6C -> 5C -> 6B -> 236D, (Drive) may be omitted. Finishers may also have (Drive) omitted. 236D and 5B have two hits, if necessary, I'll explicitly note the first or second hit with (1) or (2) respectively. --- Combo Information --- If you just want to "learn some combos and play", skip this section. This section is for "theory", and "combo building". Many chain revolver attacks have 100% initial proration, except for 6B, making them excellent combo starters. On counter-hit, almost all chain revolver attacks directly lead to (Drive) 6C, and on a crouching opponent, (Drive) 6A leads to (Drive) 6C. On hit, all chain revolver attacks except 6D, 4D, 28D and 214D rapid cancel combo to 3C, which implies that with 50% heat, you can potentially hit-confirm chain-revolver into the haida-loop. I have not fully tested where this may lead. On counter-hit or crouching, 4D combos into 3c. All chain revolver attacks except 214D and ->5D rapid cancel into 6A or 66A. Drive Attacks in order of slowest to fastest (listed with their startup frames). This is straight from the frame data on the zetaboards site. 33 (Drive) 6D 31 (Drive) 214D 30 (Drive) 4D 29 (Drive) 236D (2nd hit) 26 (Drive) 5C 24 (Drive) 5D 23 (Drive) 6C 22 (Drive) 5A 21 (Drive) 6B 21 (Drive) 6A 21 (Drive) 5B (2nd hit) 20 (Drive) 236D 19 (Drive) 2D 17 (Drive) 5B 8 (Drive) 28D And now, for some links. Note: because (say) 5D links to 5C, this probably means that 5D links to 6C as well, because 6C is a faster attack than 5C. So whats listed here are the "slowest link" in terms of startup frames. 6D launches, so I did not bother to test 6D. The following was tested using Ragna. Milage will vary (For example: 6A -> 6C does not combo on crouching Jin). I also couldn't counter-hit a standing Ragna with 2D, (Drive) 2D, or (Drive) 6C so they are not listed. Standing Opponent Links: 5D -> (Drive) 5C 4D -> 28D 2D -> 236D (first hit) (Drive) 5D -> (Drive) 5B (Drive) 2D -> (Drive) 5B (Drive) 4D -> (Drive) 28D (Drive) 5A -> (Drive) 6B / (Drive) 6A / (Drive) 5B (2) (Drive) 6A -> (Drive) 5A (Drive) 5B -> 28D (Drive) 6B -> 236D (Drive) 5C -> (Drive) 5A (Drive) 6C -> (Drive) 4D Crouching Opponent Links 5D -> 5C 4D -> 28D 2D -> (Drive) 6B / (Drive) 6A / (Drive) 5B (2) (Drive) 5D -> 236D (Drive) 2D -> (Drive) 5A (Drive) 4D -> 28D (Drive) 5A -> (Drive) 6B / (Drive) 6A / (Drive) 5B (2) (Drive) 6A -> (Drive) 5D (note: links to (Drive) 6C) (Drive) 5B -> 28D (Drive) 6B -> (Drive) 5A (Drive) 5C -> (Drive) 5A (Drive) 6C -> (Drive) 6D Standing Counter-hit Links: 5D -> [b]Any[/b] attack 60+ frames of stagger 4D > 236(2) 2D -> I Can't Counter-hit Ragna (Drive) 5D -> 236D (2) (Drive) 4D -> 236(2) (Drive) 5A -> 4D (Drive) 6A -> 214D (Drive) 5B (2) -> 236D (2) (Drive) 6B -> (Drive) 6D (Drive) 5C -> Reload Guns then 3C. (does not link to 5D after reloading) Crouching Counter-hit links: Everything except Drive 5B(2) and (Drive) 5A can link to (Drive) 6D. Both (Drive) 5B(2) and (Drive) 5A link to 214D. Important combo building combos (combos for battle exist later in this guide) : (Drive) 6C -> 5C -> 6C links on Jin only. 5D -> 6C -> 5C -> 6B -> 5B -> 28D Important Links: (Drive) 6A on crouching links to (Drive) 6C -> 28D -> 6C BC Loop. (Drive) 6B on crouching leads to (Drive) 6A. (Drive) 6C -> 6D on a crouching opponent has less proration than (Drive) 6C -> 28D. Also, 6C BC loop links to 6C -> super jump -> j.D for a knockdown. Useful if you think Oki is more important than damage from the air combo, but you have racked up too many proration points so you can't do a real BNB Drive combo finisher. Puts you in ideal Oki positioning. --- Pressure Guide --- Please familiarize yourself with frames before reading this section. (Frame Advantage, Frame Traps, and so forth) Pressure is about limiting your opponent's options, while simultaniously increasing your options. While Chain Revolver provides overall weaker pressure than 5A, I find that it still is a good tool to catch your opponent off guard. Then, when you catch your opponent's mistake, you need to punish it to the best of your ability. With exception of 4D and 5B, all chain revolver attacks can lead to about 3k damage or more heatless. 4D requires a counter-hit and 5B requires Rapid Cancel for 4k damage. The combos I list here are the best combos that I know of off of that particular chain revolver. If you know of any better combo, please let me know. :-) 5D : Great for starting combos on counter-hit (time your invincibility carefully). Decent pressure starter, but don't get predictable. 6B -> 5D on block has a 6 frame hole, so most characters cannot throw you out of it (Tager has a 6-frame normal grab however). 5C -> 5D and 2C -> 5D are 8 frame holes, which can be poked / thrown out of, but is useful option to encourage your opponent to start mashing out, which is then punished by the 2C/5C -> 2D / 3C frame trap and mixup. Good range. On hit, 5D -> 6C -> 214A -> 2B -> 6C -> j.C -> j.B -> j.B -> j.C -> j.236C for ~3800 damage. Hitconfirm your 5C / 6C / 2C counter-hits for Massive Damage!! 5C CH -> 5D -> 2D -> 28D -> 6C -> Corner BNB or Air Combo for about 5k heatless in the corner. Midscreen has 5C CH -> 5D -> 6C -> 214A -> 2B -> 6C -> air combo for about 4k damage. If you're willing to spend a rapid cancel at midscreen, 5C CH -> 5D -> 236D -> RC -> 6C BC Loop -> 5D Chain Revolver BNB for about 5k. 2D : Overhead, low invincible, airborne (requires airthrow to get thrown. Ground throws don't work). Poor pressure option but great on crouching opponent hit. 2D -> 6B -> 6A -> 5D -> 28D -> 6C -> Air Combo for 2977 damage mid-screen heatless. 2D -> 6A -> 28D -> 6C -> 5D -> BNB Midscreen Chain Revolver is 2962 heatless. In the corner, 2D becomes devestating with 2D -> 28D -> 6C -> corner BNB, which may involve multiple bloom triggers on some characters. Some characters with wide crouching hitboxes such as Litchi have 2D -> 6A -> 6C -> 6D -> 28D as a midscreen option. Also an option for 5C / 6C / 2C counter-hits on some opponents. On Rachel, 5C CH -> 2D -> 28D -> 6C -> 5D -> 236D -> 6C -> 5D -> 5B -> 6B -> 5B -> 6B -> 28D for 5.6k damage heatless in the corner. 6D : Low. Very slow. On block, it works well as a pressure option however: large frame advantage on hit if you continue chain revolver. 6D -> 5C -> 6B -> 28D -> 6C -> 5D -> 6B -> 5C -> 6B -> 5C -> 236D for 3688 damage. Best I could do with Carl's annoying hitbox is 28D -> 6C BC loop -> 2D -> 28D 4D : Works decently against air-dashing opponents. Strange hitbox makes it work well against Mirror-Match 5A, and invincibility works on Ragna's 5B. 28D is the only link on non-counter hit. On Counter Hit, links to 6C -> 214A and forces opponent to stand. 4D CH -> 6C -> 214A -> 2B -> 6C -> j.C -> j.B -> j.B -> j.C -> j.236C is 3759 damage. (Drive) 5D: Seems to be the anti-burst move. Useful followup if your opponent barrier blocked your last hit, because you "slide" forward while attacking. Strange hitbox during this move. Doesn't have many combos, but can set up 28D -> 6C heatless nicely. (Drive) 2D: Seems to be idential to 2D. Used in frame-traps, anti-low, and a fast overhead. If you ignore initial proration, 2D (and Drive 2D) has the best damage / proration ratio of all Chain Revolver attacks, even better than 236D. (Drive) 4D: Aside from a strange Rapic Cancel combo I discovered... there doesn't seem to be much use of this. If you want more space between you and your opponent, I generally have better experiences with 5B or 6B. Very Good damage to proration ratio, if you ignore initial proration, making this theoretically very good for combos. (Drive) 6D: Your only low in chain revolver. 214A is a useful pseudo-low attack however. Slow as hell, but launches the opponent. Inside of a combo, great damage / proration ratio, but only 6C on crouching and some counter-hits link to (Drive) 6D. (Drive) 5A: Tied with 5B for most frame-advantage on block, few options on hit. "Steps forward" a bit, so its useful on barrier-guarding opponent. Deceptively good range. (Drive) 6A: Poor on block (only +8 frames), very useful link to 6C on crouching opponent for some characters, useful to stay in on a barrier-guarding opponent because of "slide forward". (Drive) 5B: Very long range. Fastest Chain Revolver attack. Tied with 5A for most frame-advantage on block. First hit is non-projectile, which beats Tager's sledge. Very few combo options on hit however. On pressure, use this attack if you are too close to the opponent: it safely pushes you away. Meatier than Jin's 5B with so much range that it always beats Nu's backdash if you're close enough. 28D is the only real combo however, and only if the opponent wasn't pushed away. Rapid Cancel (Drive) 5B (1) into (Drive) 5B (1) -> RC -> 6A -> 6C -> 5D -> Drive BNB for about 4k damage. Or, (Drive) 5B (1) -> RC -> 3C. (Drive) 6B: Decent speed, pretty good on block, overhead, non-projectile. Combos to (Drive) 6B -> 6A -> 5D -> 28D -> 6C -> 5D -> Drive BNB on crouching opponent for 2987 damage. Useful at close range to push the opponent away. Poor initial proration limits damage on combos, but good P2 and good speed makes this useful as a combo link. Frame traps to (Drive) 5B with a 4 frame hole, and if you're far away frame traps to (Drive) 5B (2) with a 8 frame hole. (Drive) 5C: One of the slowest attacks. Devestating to Guard Libra and Barrier (2200 vs Guard Libra). If properly spaced from the opponent, it is reasonably safe to use this attack because it has pretty good range. Links to (Drive) 6C vs Jin on standing opponent. Forces opponent to stand. On hit, you may attempt a reset to 214A. If close enough, (Drive) 5C -> 28D -> 6C -> 5D -> Drive BNB for 4020 damage. If you are going to spend the heat anyway, do (Drive) 5C -> 2D -> 28D -> Rapid -> 6C -> Drive BNB for 4.9k. Rapid is not necessary in the corner. (Drive) 6C: The guard-crush move with 2700 Guard Crush. Draws opponent closer. Great pressure tool if they don't reversal you out of its startup. On block, mixup between frame trap (5-frame hole: (Drive) 5B), anti-dragon punch (214D), (Drive) 2D and (Drive) 6B overheads, a low (Drive) 6D, and another guard crush hit (Drive) 5C. 28D is a 1-frame trap if they instant-block (Drive) 6C. Combos into 28D -> 6C heatless, because the opponent is always close after 6C. On standing opponent, combos into 214A. On crouching opponent, combos to 6D -> 5C -> 6B -> 28D -> 6C -> j.C -> air combo for 4682 damage. With 50% heat on standing opponent, combos into (Drive) 6C -> RC -> 6A -> 6C loop -> Drive BNB for ~4.6k damage. A more difficult combo is (Drive) 6C -> 4D -> RC -> 66A -> 6C -> BNB Drive Combo for 4.9k midscreen, or 5.1k in the corner. (Drive) 236D: Out-ranges Barrier Burst. Useful as a frame-trap, and good combo-finisher. At higher levels of play, even this attack is unsafe on block, as your opponents learn to instant-block and then combo you. If you manage to counter-hit with this, you have nasty Rapid Cancel options. 236D(2) -> RC -> 6C BC (loop) -> BNB Chain Revolver leads to 4623+ damage. In the corner, 236D (2) -> RC -> 6C -> 5D -> 236D -> 6C -> 5D -> 5B -> 6B -> 5B -> 6B -> 236D leads to 6377 damage. (Works on Jin, and Litchi, probably others) Lol, three bloom triggers in one combo. (Drive) 214D: Anti-Dragon Punch. If you think your opponent is about to dragon-punch you, throw this out, and you'll probably beat their dragon punch. Rapid Cancel on some characters (Ragna, Noel, Jin are easiest) 214D -> RC -> 6C BC Loop -> 5D -> etc. etc. This Rapid Cancel combo works on all characters on counter-hit. Time it right against Litchi, and you've got knocked-down Staffless Litchi in the corner. (Drive) 28D: Launches opponent, startup invincible. Poor damage / proration ratio but easily starts up combos. 28D is the universal frame trap from any chain revolver hit. Some chain revolver hits have a lot of frame advantage, so you may have to "delay" the 28D if you want a real frame trap. Leads to 6C loop if the opponent was close enough. Overall: you have frame traps (236D, 5B, 28D), Guard Crush moves (5C and 6C), links (5A and 6A), Overheads and Lows (6D, 2D, and 6B), and anti-dragon punch (214D). No attack is safe on block: almost all characters can punish any move on block if you "finish" the chain revolver. The safest way to finish chain revolver is to mixup between a frame trap and an early finish. IE: Finish on (Drive) 5B sometimes, and on other times, finish with (Drive) 5B -> 236D. This will discourage your opponent from rushing in on (Drive) 5B, and if -> 236D isn't used often, then your opponent will likely miss his opportunity to punish you. Sometimes finish with 214D, or really, any move so that you aren't predictable. The only thing protecting you is your opponent's uncertainty. As soon as he knows what you are doing, he can punish you. Similarly, if you know what your opponent is going to do, you can almost always beat him. If he wants to jab out or grab you out of your chain revolver string, start using 236D and 5B frame traps. Keep your distance from your opponent to prevent 5A or throws. Use 5B and 6B to "move back" and use 5A, 6A and 5D to "move forward". It is possible to control your distance by using these attacks. -------- Thats All for now! ----------- Thank you for reading this far. I know this is a lot of text, but I hope it is all useful. Add your questions / comments / improvements and I'll try to integrate them into this guide.

Oh yeah, I was agreeing with you. It is stupid. It should go without saying that using a move in anticipation (instead of hitconfirm / reaction) with 30+ frames of punishable time on whiff is terrible.

13 frames (~210 miliseconds) is within the human reaction time for a "single choice". (~150 to ~250 miliseconds). However, because this game offers more than one choice at any given time, I doubt that even a pro with lots of training can react to that sort of thing on time. So I guess it isn't a reaction, but instead prediction at that point.

Indeed, 3c is one of the most punishable attacks for Noel, and is one of the most punishable attacks in the game. For comparison, an INSTANT BLOCKED Ice Car leaves Jin at -14 frames. A normal blocked 3c leaves Noel at -19 frames and crouching. They don't even have to instant-block and they're already at more of an advantage than scrubby Ice Carz. On the other hand, with proper spacing, you can wait for a 5B whiff and then punish with 3C 22C RC -> stuff. Ragna's 5B's range is big, but 3C is bigger and leads to Oki. When they start to learn to use 5C instead, you need to adapt... Or maybe they won't adapt and you can punish their 5B whiffs with 3c all day :-)

You have a good point, although I should mention that if the Tager is especially defensive, I'd just finish with the following blockstring. 5A (spam) -> (optional 6A) -> 6C -> 2C Note: if you instant block the last 5A spam, 6C still connects safely if you drop the 6A. 6A does offer 1100 tasty Guard Crush though. I think a blocked 2C game is now overall in Noel's favor, and you've lost 4.4k+ Guard Libra (not counting the 5A spam) if you blocked this very short sequence. The only potential hole is if you instant-blocked the 6C, but if that is normal/barrier blocked then there are no holes. I do think there is a 720C opportunity off of a blocked Noel 2C, but 2C leaves Noel in +1 frame advantage on normal block, and Noel has a lot of options from the 2C. Not only the scrubby Noel's 2D / 3C "mixup", but also Noel's 5B which outranges Tager's 360A and 5A and stuffs most other attacks, some dash in and more Noel 5A spam and so forth.

There are no gaps even if you IB Noel's 5A spam. Both 5A and 6C are both faster than an instant-blocked guard-stun, and cancel from 5A. So spin that joystick around, I'll have some 5A spam to keep me safe over here.

IB 5A leaves you at only +2 frames, not enough to stop another 5A or 6C. 2C cancels into 2D. 2D is airborne from frame 5 to 30 (can't be ground grabbed). You are recovering at frame 13 or 18, with the 720 comming out at frame 18 or 23. So 2C -> 2D breaks that. If you sledge after a 2C, you should condition the opponent into not using 2D, so this isn't as "bad" as it sounds with appropriate pressure. I would instead suggest... Normal Block Noel's 5B and then just 720. 5B cancels into 5C, 2C and 6B, and is not jump-cancelable. No need to instant-block either, everything out of 5B has a hole on regular block (and further, they are almost all projectile attacks, so SledgeA should be reasonably safe unless Noel does 6B or 2D... ). The only way out for Noel is to save herself is to cancel into 2D or maybe 214A... which also have holes but she would be airborn by the time the 720 lands. Wait, what am I doing here? I shouldn't be telling Tager players my weaknesses

Genius! Why didn't I think of that earlier? >_< Uhhh... and 300 dmg with 75% proration scaler (Drive -> 6A) and 240 damage with 85% proration scaler (Drive -> 5A) ? I think the 6A would be useful to take a "step forward", but hell, if you plan to ever 236D during a combo, Drive->6A and Drive->5A have so much proration that they actually reduce the amount of damage you do. Its sad too... D -> 5A -> 6A -> 5A -> 6A -> 236D is on the DVD, and it does less damage than simply 5D -> 236D ... Oh well, at least thats a few more scrubby Noels who'll do significantly less damage, lol.

Meh, when I don't have to pay for something, I don't really judge too harshly on those things. But you're right

Well, those screenshots do have ultras going off :-p Or do you mean the MP / Voltage system? I think it is interesting, because MP limits your specials, and Voltage increases the rate at which MP recovers. Thus, high voltage leads to better combo / pressure strings. (Eventually, your MP will run out if you keep up the pressure) However, you lose a lot of voltage when your supers / ultras go off. So its non-trivial to manage your resources in this game. Super now for lots of damage? Or should you use the voltage to continue having better pressure vs the opponent?

http://www.diced.jp/~tryef/ A freeware fighter, apparently it has an online mode now, but I haven't tried that at all. Its more or less a 3 button fighter, although the 4th button does some specific stuff like switching your attack state. It has a somewhat interesting super system, you've got your standard "normal" attacks which don't use any resources, you've got your standard specials (quarter circles and all) which use up your mana (which recovers very quickly). You've got some supers / ex attacks (quarter circle heavy) which use up mana and voltage%, and finally, you have ultras which require you to have 80%+ mind. I used to play this a lot years ago during classes... I figured I'd put this up to see if anyone else cared to try it. The menu is in English at least, but the story and instruction manual is Japanese. Google's translation of the manual... if you dare...

Careful. I personally place a frame-trap there (all too often actually >_<. Its kind-of a bad habit, I need to stop doing it). Assuming you instant-block the 2D, you'll be at either +34 frames (if Noel stops to reload), or +7 frames (if Noel plans to continue the combo). If Noel continues the Chain Revolver into 28D (Flash Kick), her startup-invincibility will beat out your 5B and Arakune will eat a standard Noel 6C BC loop :-p. Well, you'll learn quick if the opponent Noel is good enough to do that / has a bad habit of 28Ding everything. In that case, just block the 28D and then punish. Watch for rapid cancel of course.

j.C isn't an overhead, and Spring Raid is unsafe on block. The true overhead would be J.C -> (j.D cancel) -> 6B -> 28D if you really wanted that. From there, you should technically learn to hitconfirm into 28D, 236D, or 214D. On block, I tend to find 236D the safest, 214D should be used to keep the opponent guessing (it has the best frame disadvantage anyway of the finishers, only -9), and 28D should be off of a hit only.

Or, just 6A her as she comes down. Head Invunerability for the win!!! 5D can go through tiny Lobellia. Including the "slide forward", It has more range than Tiny Lobellia A and about the same range as Tiny Lobellia B. 5D does NOT go through the pumpkin or frog however, so be careful if she has those out. It is a bit unsafe. I'm pretty sure most of the D attacks stagger a standing opponent (except 2D and 6D). I think 5C staggers on counterhit. But 5D has massive stagger time.

You are wiffing a lot of attacks. Learn your range, use 5B when you are outside of 5A range. Whiffing 5As just leaves you open to a stronger, longer range attack from Tager. You hit a crouching Nu with 2C. 3C only combos from 2c if the opponent is crouching... but at least twice you missed the opportunity. If the opponent is crouching, but is hit by anything... then combo into 3C and then 22C loop their sorry ass. In your first three videos, you never did a 2C -> 2D mixup. It probably isn't too safe vs Tager, but it has potential for high damage. If your opponent is in the corner, or if you are close enough to the opponent, then 2D -> 28D -> 6C -> BNB can work as your "high mixup" option. If you've conditioned the opponent to block your 3C low, it is an option, but good players will learn to react to both in time. I only viewed the first three, so yeah...

Yeah, you definitely got a lot better in the later matches. Bloom Trigger is much safer than Flash Kick when your opponent is blocking. You dropped a few 3Cs, which of course is a lot of missed damage. Random Fenrir don't work well in my experience >_< But I always get nervous and try it anyway. The air distortion seems safer vs Nu at least. --------- In all the matches, the only BNB Drive combo that you seemed to get down at all was Noel's corner combo (5D -> 5B -> 6B -> 5C -> 6B -> Bloom Trigger). I would suggest practicing the midscreen combo a bit more. It is useful in more situations, and only does slightly less damage than the corner combo. Not to mention, the midscreen combo works in the corner anyway. The key is to continue the 6C BC loop until your opponent is as low as possible. Once you do that, the timing is approximately 5D->6B->5C-> (wait) -> 6B -> 5C -> Bloom Trigger. The opponent is stuck in a lot of stun after 5C, you have to wait for him to fall if you want to combo into 6B. You had a few 5D counter-hits. When you manage to do this, stop and think. Your opponent will be stuck in stagger stun for over 60 frames. This is enough time to do 5D (counter-hit) -> Reload Guns -> Run up to opponent -> 5D -> 6C -> 214A -> 2B -> 6C -> short air combo. (Or anything really, over 60 frames of stagger stun. Do your worst). As a semi-pressure string continuation, after 2C, you can sometimes run right at the opponent and then do another 5A -> 5B -> 5C -> 2C routine. 2C leaves you in +1 frame advantage, and Noel's 5A is one of the fastest jabs in the game. (6C is also an option if you want to just smack their guard libra really hard really fast) An overly defensive opponent will eventually be guard crushed, and if not, he'll be losing barrier guard fast. If they can read your mixup 100% of the time (this Nu seemed to be able to react to the 3C and 2D mixup), then do the 3rd option: Be stupid and charge at them again. It is often times much safer than a 3C anyway. If they start mashing to take advantage of the "hole" between 2C and 5A, then start throwing 2D and 3C at them again. 2D beats them out if they mash lows (lower body invulnerability from frame 1 !!!), and 3C beats them out if they mash highs. Edit: the 2C mixup goes a little bit beyond just 2D for overhead and 3C for low. The +1 Frame advantage gives you many options. Running up for a 5A (or 6C) generally beats them out if they are too defensive. Staying where you are and using 5B will make your opponent's jab whiff you, and still gatlings into 5C -> 2C for another mixup opportunity. And as noted above, 2D and 3C ought to beat out random mashing. Your eyes are much faster than mine btw, good job rapid canceling your attack to block the barrier. You are probably a better player than me, but nevertheless, the above is what I can gather from those videos. ---- That is indeed a lot of damage, but I don't think that one works on Nu. It works on Jin, but if you set the training dummy to Nu, she'll recover between the (drive) C -> 6C.

I suggest you go into training mode, set the dummy to random D mashing, and then figure out the holes. Generally, the holes are slightly different depending on how they move, but in general... D-> 6A, 6B, 6C, and a few others are unsafe to a well timed grab. 2D is unsafe to your 6A Finishers (28D, and 214D) are generally unsafe on block. Because of the startup invincibility of certain attacks, you don't have a 100% counter to "glowing green", you have to block by default and then react. Fortunately, most bad D Spammers only do one string over and over again... and most D spammers tend to do the easy as hell D -> 6A -> A -> 6A -> A -> 236D. Between A and 6A, you can grab them out of it. If they do something like 2D -> D -> 2D, etc. etc, then you should time a 6A as the 2D comes out. 6A is also a good option vs the above drive string. Just be careful with their D attack, it has invulnerability to head attacks, so 6A will wiff and open yourself up to a counter hit. My favorite is D -> 6C spam. 6C has damn slow recovery and you auto-block after blocking the first hit. You can literally do whatever the hell you want as 6C ends. 6C is mad unsafe on block. My favorite is to simply 236236D super them while their gun is still spinning. If you don't got the heat, instant-block the last hits and then buffer a grab and then do your BNB grab combo when it comes out. Or 5a -> 6a -> BNB pwnage. If they are doing 2D -> 236D or 28D or 214D, they are pretty smart IMO :-p. I find that entering chain revolver and then quickly finishing it is the safest option. If you want to punish them, it is quite easy to block both 214D and 28D and then punish. In a mirror match, 236D is hard to punish in my experience and is IMO the best option to go if YOU want to start drive spamming. Now note, a Drive Spammer can start getting smart. If he starts baiting your grab / counter-attacks, he can then D -> 28D which practically beats out all grabs / counter-attacks. Of course, all you gotta do is block 28D and bam, you've got him. If he's really smart, he'll then punish the 28D counter-hit with a 6C BC combo or something similar... but I've only seen this from non-spammy Noels...

If anyone is curious, I threw the characters into an Elo-based list. http://www.dustloop.com/forums/showpost.php?p=433641&postcount=57 This isn't really a "tier list", and most of the numbers are heavily based on the arcadia matchup list (I figured that tier list would be a good place to start). After that, I factored in the match-by-match results into Elo and ended up with the following Elo rankings for the characters. Rachel 1260 Nu-13 1227 Arakune 1206 Carl 1195 Litchi 1075 Jin 1061 Taokaka 1016 Noel 1009 Ragna 945 Hakumen 887 Bang 854 Tager 519 Note: Tager, Noel, Ragna, etc. etc. are very inaccurate. These characters had less than 5 matches, so don't put much faith into their numbers. Hell, the numbers are completely based off of only two sources: Arcadia's tier list, and the SBO Tournament Results. This list is inaccurate as hell, but it will get better if more tournaments are factored into it. So, if there are other tournament results you'd like me to integrate into this ranking, I'll be happy to do so. On the other hand, Nu, Rachel, and Arakune had many matches in SBO. So... I think we can actually rely on their ranking. ---------- EDIT: Just so that we are clear, I bring this list forward as a Work in Progress. It is insane to make any sort of conclusion from only a survey and a single tournament.