FlyingVe Posted November 17, 2010 Posted November 17, 2010 Check out this deal. Yeah, it's the so-so SE model, but it's also $30. $30 MadCatz SE Fightstick
ThunderboltZ28 Posted November 17, 2010 Posted November 17, 2010 I just saw that on SRK. I might just buy another SE for the hell of it.
Zeromus_X Posted November 17, 2010 Posted November 17, 2010 That looks like an awesome deal. Get that, buy some Sanwa parts for like 40 bucks...you'll basically have a TE stick for less than 80 dollars.
FunkyP Posted November 17, 2010 Posted November 17, 2010 SE's are still terribly light and small, but other than that I suppose you will have a stick with sanwa parts for less than $80.
ThunderboltZ28 Posted November 18, 2010 Posted November 18, 2010 As soon as I was going to ordre another SE they sell out.
darkblade77 Posted November 18, 2010 Posted November 18, 2010 SE's are still terribly light and small, but other than that I suppose you will have a stick with sanwa parts for less than $80. Pretty much this, I was set on modding a SE's buttons for my second stick until I did it for a friend and immediately missed the weight/form-factor of the TE. then I got a perfect-condition TE off ebay for $66
ThunderboltZ28 Posted November 25, 2010 Posted November 25, 2010 Appearntly Gameshark is having a two for one special. http://shoryuken.com/content/mad-catz-buy-one-get-one-arcade-stick-sale-2554/
Azura Posted November 25, 2010 Posted November 25, 2010 Is this a decent buy at all? http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=11980205&findingMethod=rr
C0R Posted November 25, 2010 Posted November 25, 2010 I assume it's the on-sale version of THIS. If so it's basically the kiddie version, not as solid, not-so quality composition and lack general refinement. but not as expensive. I would suggest going on holdout for a real quality product, cause I develop emotional attachment to these things and hate having them wear out. But my wallet does hurt.
Azura Posted November 25, 2010 Posted November 25, 2010 (edited) I see. I'm getting a bit ancy because I saw they were selling HRAP3's for $50-something on Amazon the other day and I was too stupid to buy it up immediately. Looks like the best thing do is wait it out and get something with quality, thank you. ***update*** Just got a HRAP3 ordered for $49, used but Like New and backed up by Amazon. Hopefully, I made the right choice. Edited November 25, 2010 by Azura
Narcowski Posted November 25, 2010 Posted November 25, 2010 The SE is a decent stick if you're interested in replacing the components - it'll work out cheaper than a TE if you want something fancy like art in your buttons. That said, it absolutely has to be modded.
Azura Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Yeah, I definitely planned to mod. No worries there. I plan to try to get used to it for the next few weeks and order some parts as I go. I know the buttons should be replaced but what are the mods that you would recommend?
Jugun Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Questions about mod stick,do they perform slower if you mess up?
Andarel Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Unlikely. More problematically, they straight up won't work / will randomly drop inputs. The latter is worse because you won't know as easily that you messed up. Putting a crapton of inefficient solder may do something, and crappy cabling may do something, but realistically slowdown won't happen.
Narcowski Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Doubtful. If you really mess something up soldering, it just won't work at all. If you mess something up plugging buttons in, it should be obvious (and easy to fix).
C0R Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Sometimes the housing for your buttons might be too tight, causing the buttons to stick, or have additional friction, resulting in a slowdown, but like everyone's been saying, it's more likely you'll run into the mod not working at all.
mr.mortified Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Questions about mod stick,do they perform slower if you mess up? Like others before have said, the odds of it slowing down because of a bad mod are next to none. A bad mod will just result in it not working. Also be careful about your solder, especially with those nice crimp quick disconnects from lizard lick. Crimping it bad will cause you to drop inputs as it doesn't make a decent enough connection to the disconnect. This has happened to me right in the middle of a tournament and it was not fun. Made a point to solder everything but quick disconnects to buttons after that.... If you're afraid of messing up your TE/SE board, solder the inputs to the terminal block rather than to the board itself. If you want to tap into your USB, best idea would be to cut and strip a decent amount of usb wire to connect to your custom PCB like a MCthulhu + Imp, Dual strike, ChImps, etc... That way you can take the part about fucking up your pcb out of the equation. Just make sure you dont' cross any of these usb wires when you do attach them to the custom pcb. Especially DO NOT CROSS YOUR RED WIRE AND BLACK WIRE TOGETHER unless you want a fried console. Always test out your mods on PCs before you do it on consoles. Happy modding~
peedro Posted November 27, 2010 Posted November 27, 2010 When I was dismantling my JLF (to mount it better, I sort of did it wrong) there was a bunch of plastic shavings in around the stick shaft. Is that normal?
mr.mortified Posted November 27, 2010 Posted November 27, 2010 When I was dismantling my JLF (to mount it better, I sort of did it wrong) there was a bunch of plastic shavings in around the stick shaft. Is that normal? wouldn't worry about that, sounds like the bottom dustwasher is just getting worn. I'm assuming you see black smears on the metal mounting plate?
peedro Posted November 27, 2010 Posted November 27, 2010 This is the stick I have: http://shoryuken.com/f177/paewang-revolution-mayflash-modding-tutorial-ver-laugh-%5Blots-pictures%5D-222925/ The mounting plate doesn't fit, so the mounting method just involves the screw holes on the body of the JLF. The shavings in question were in between the body and the circuit board, and I cleaned it up just to be safe.
GKHiryu Posted November 29, 2010 Posted November 29, 2010 Does anyone know what joystick has the most similar feel to the one used in Hori's Fighting Stick 2?
RaveSage Posted November 29, 2010 Posted November 29, 2010 Does anyone know what joystick has the most similar feel to the one used in Hori's Fighting Stick 2? Probably an amarican style stick such as Happ or get whatever stick you want and change the spring.
GKHiryu Posted November 29, 2010 Posted November 29, 2010 not really, I've tested both Happ Comp and Super, and they both felt very, very different from the one used in Hori FS2.
Kinezumi Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) Can anyone who's used both tell me the difference, in feel, quality and function, between the Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition and the non-Tournament Edition? The former is £115/$181 whereas the later is only £45/$71. Is there really $110 worth of difference? Even like $50 worth of difference? Also, I see a TE Round 2 on Amazon. It sounds like an improved version and yet it's about $30 cheaper. What's the deal with that? Edited December 5, 2010 by Kinezumi
DemiiPoet Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 Can anyone who's used both tell me the difference, in feel, quality and function, between the Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition and the non-Tournament Edition? The former is £115/$181 whereas the later is only £45/$71. Is there really $110 worth of difference? Even like $50 worth of difference? SE = Smaller TE with cheaper parts that supposedly crap out on you within days. However, you can buy the SE and just replace all the buttons and the joystick with Sanwa parts and basically have the same thing as a TE but in a smaller case.
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